Tuesday, 24 February 2009

To Paradise from Queenstown

Notice today at the notorious skippers gorge 'road'.

Connie and 'M' went down the gorge in a 2 pony trap probably like this!

Burning a ton of coal each crosing .TSS Earnslaw on Lake Wakitipu.

From TSS Earnslaw. The 'fast' vessel she knew was soon to arrive.

No comment.

The Kingston Flyer.

KEA, a possible rescue bird with a broken wing but showing a hint of the bright red underwing. Totally destructuve , mischievous and intelligent birds.

A ten year old Tuatara, very long living and the most ancient reptile on earth. Known from 23 million years ago.

Queenstown is a total tourist heaven, every thrill and adventure is available here. Mountains, ravines, fast flowing water are all available for jumping off, crashing over and soaring above. All the adrenaline you can produce can be can be stimulated for a fee. And for those of us less inclined to such excess there are walks, sails, drives and flights on water, land and air. Endless accommodation, trips, food, retail excess and printed information.

But then this morning it was wet, so I went for an easy option while I checked what the day would do, and went to the bird park so that at least I will have seen a Kiwi and and a Kea while I am here. There was a talk advertised for 11am so I went and found a dry seat under the tarpauline cover to wait. I glanced round and thought the profile of a woman in the row behind, just visible under a large waterproof hat looked familiar. A few glances later when she too finally looked round and It was true. This was Ian and Meg, friends of ours from England whom we hadn’t seen since they came up to Scotland for the midsummer Millenium party we held at Connie’s house in 2000! It seems we have been in the same places a few times lately and not met, now here we were sitting feet apart under a wet tarp in a Queenstown bird park. Those inevitable coincidences again. We ate a really excellent dinner together by the waterfront last night with a lot of catching up to do. As the day was improving I abandoned the birds and headed off up the lake side towards Paradise a small location that Connie had reached with much more difficulty than I. She had gone to the head of the lake by steamer – complaining at the new one that the owners were buying which would go more than 20 miles an hour to the ruination of the peace and tranquility. She stopped at Kinloch – where the old house still stands- then over to Glenorchy on the other side, then she had gone by Mr Aitken’s horse & carriage criss-crossing the outwash gravels of the twin rivers the Dart and the Lees. Even today the final 37 km to Paradise was on poor gravel road and involved fording several streams. I tried to get to the head of the road, a long way past Paradise but finally met my match with one ford that was just too deep for this little car. A man in a huge 4x4 came past and said just make sure the doors are closed and don’t stop in the middle . I watched him go across and realised this is not what you are meant to do in little rented cars so waved him on – he had kindly waited to see that I got across safely - and turned back. Anyway I had reached Paradise , just 2 houses, and cant say it quite lived up to my expectations although the scenery round about is truly amazing. I stopped to take a photograph and spoke to a young woman with 2 dogs who had the thankless and lonely task of pulling up the poisonous Ragwort plants. I asked how farming could be profitable in such a remote place and she said her boss made his money from Film companies wanting to shoot films and adverts here and that the cattle and horses were hired out as ‘extras’. A very new form of farming. Actually she also told me that she is coming to the UK in a few weeks hoping to find work on Organic farms so I gave her our contact details and she might yet end up collecting our eggs in a few months time. Another inevitable co-incidence?

Today ( and ~ I really still dont know which day it is) if the weather holds I think I am off to take a trip on the renovated steam ship TSS Earnslaw, that dreadful boat that replaced Connie’s more sedate version, and which hopefully does go more than 20 miles an hour.

It is now evening and I did indeed have a lovely cruise across the lake and back. A splendid old boat which now carries huge numbers of tourists. There is full access to the engine rooms and bridge and the old salons have been meticulously restored. Tourists , walkers, mountaineers and hikers began the invasion of these parts in earnest around 1900 and before, and we are seeking the same thrills today – only bigger, better, faster and more dangerous. And we come in far greater numbers. For now. New Zealand has now become very financially dependent on the tourist industry and the world wide economic recession will take its toll. So far it hasn’t been felt as most tourists had booked and pre-paid their holidays before the recession arrived, but next year might well be a very different story . There is not much optimism right now.

I also visited the Southern Lakes Museum in Arrowtown where the very helpful archivist helped me to track down the exact type of carraiges that Connie wouldhave travelled in. However you look at it - comfort was not an option!

Te Anau – Manapouri

The now 'easy walk' along the smooth footpath that was then the awful coach road at Manapouri

The Manapouri river where it joins the lake where Connie sketched and 'photo'd'.

I worked as a waitress at the Te Anau hotel for the Christmas holiday in 1962. Apart from the fairly small hotel there were a few houses, a village store and an airstrip in a field out the back. The woman who filled my car with petrol this morning also lived here then and remembers riding her horse up what is now the main street. There has been huge development here in the last ten and especially the last 5 years with over 2,000 permanent residents and with at least 20 motels plus camp sites and day trippers on their way to Milford , who knows how many visitors. The airport is now 5 miles out of town but I remember coming in on a little Cesna plane and having to make a low pass to clear the sheep off the strip then hop over the fence, go round the one and only tree and regain enough height to get back in to land before the sheep returned. I also recall my alarm as the pilot said with true kiwi irony as we went sideways round this lonely pine ’ geeze someone’s gonna hit that bloody tree one of these days’. I guess today’s expansion has a lot to do with the so called ‘Lord of the rings effect’ and the trade expansion with Asia. I drove down the easy road to Manapouri where Connie had sketched and photographed, then on to Kingston where I joined the renovated steam train for a one hour round tourist trip to Fairlight . As we gently rattled along sitting in the luxury of what would have been the leather padded comfort of a first class compartment, I never the less felt quite shaken about. Think then of Connie’s hearfelt description of their journey down to Manapouri from Te Anau , “ We breakfasted at 7.30 and were off soon after 8 in a 3 horse buggy. Language fails to describe the jolting ( to use a totally inadequate word) which we underwent in those 12 miles – sometimes there was a track, sometimes none, sometimes ( and that was the worst of all) the road was being made; imagine a mountainous ploughed field with a stone quarry thrown in and you will have an idea of what we trotted over’ They even arrived late and missed the launch and the outing they were aiming for. Later she says ‘ We got back about 7, and it says something for the way the human body is put together that so far we have not discovered any displaced organs or dislocated bones. Though I am afraid the shaking was more than was good for ‘M’. Driving the easy road into Queenstown I reflected a lot on the nature of travel, why we do it, what human need is satisfied and whether there is any difference in that desire now and then. Why do we feel more impressed by high mountains than flat plains, by skyscrapers rather than bungalows? Is it scale and awe, the fact that we are overwhelmed by the greater height, but if so then why not feel intimidated rather than uplifted. Actually I think it might be more about hardwiring in the brain, that we simply react to verticle lines more than horizontal, to moving more than static and maybe even the ‘pure ’colour of green or blue is addictive to the visual cortex in some way. Of course the sense of escape from everyday life has a lot to do with the importance of travel. Some think the genetic heritage of connection with the land is still dominant but perhaps even more, a natural human curiosity is alive in us still.